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How to Make a Hakama

Assume that you have some basic sewing experience,so that you can comprehend the following description fully.

You really have not to scale those pieces,for it’s just a basic preparation.But you need to make them longer or wider depending on the stature of the person or your willingness.Also the waistband must be long enough,which can wrap the waist 2 times or more.Meanwhile it should be half as wide as the waistband casing,which should be less wide than the back of the hakama.

Choose,measure and cut out the pieces.Before cutting your beautiful fabric you can do a trial,using some tissue paper or muslin to test whether the size is OK or not.Remember that the front of your hakama will be pleated,so extra fabric will be needed to keep the bottom full.The deeper you want the pleats,the more fabric have to be prepared.This is the first step.

Traditionally,saw the two front pieces together from waist to crotch.Then mark the pleats for the front piece and sew them.Sew the two pieces together from waist to crotch.Mark the pleats for the back piece and sew them.Hakama usually have seven pleats – 5 in front and 2 in back.So repeat the step introduced above.

Everyone must have seen how a pair of pants are like.Then you can lay the new front piece and new back piece on top of each other,with the right side of the fabric inside.Sew the insides of the legs together.Take the left side of the piece on top and sew its center seam to the left side of the piece underneath.Do the same with the right side,making it like a pair of pants.If you really have some trouble dealing with it,turn your eyes on the pants.

Along the straight part,sew the side seams of the face-to-face pieces together.You need to hem the side vents individually,whichi allow room to get into the hakama.

After the descriptions all done well,try on your hakama and check the panel width of the front and back.If there’s too much fullness at the waist,you need to make some darts or such in the back.

Fold the waistband casing in half and sew it to the top of the back piece once you’ve got the hakama fitted right.The waistband should go through it,for it’s like a tube.

Again,fold the waistband in half,sew the right side together into a tube.Turn the right side out,then sew it to the top of the front piece.

If all is done perfectly,hem the bottoms,then turn the pants right-side out(usually)and finish up whatever needs to be done.That’s the important step when making costumes that even many people may forget it.

Any styles will be designed by yourself.But please remember to keep your hakama from falling down.


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